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Shop 53 rue Saint André des Arts, Paris 6th - Email: Hello@charlie-paris.com - Tel: 0967411237

Store 53 rue Saint André des Arts, Paris 6th - Email: Hello@charlie-paris.com - Tel: 0967411237

What criteria should a watch answer to receive the Geneva punch?

For more than a century, the "Geneva Punch" has been a quality reference and artisanal know-how of excellence. The Geneva Horlogerie and Micro Technology Laboratory, called TimeLab, is responsible for the activity of the "Geneva Punch".The latter is the watchmaking seal established by the Grand Council of the Canton of Geneva in 1886. This certification is a standard of excellence and the emblem of Haute-Horlogerie Geneva, it guarantees the origin of the watches, their welfault and reliability. But what are the criteria to which a watch must answer to receive this famous Geneva punch? Team Charlie Paris explains you in detail in this article.

  1. The Geneva Punch: the origins
  2. The Geneva punch, a mark of excellence

1. The Geneva Punch: the origins

Established in 1886, the Geneva punch is a label of excellence that guarantees the origin and quality of the Mechanical watches manufactured in the canton of Geneva. Since 2009, Geneva's watchmark and microtechnology laboratory has been responsible for controlling its allocation.

The creation of this certification originates from the 16ththCentury when many Huguenot horrors craftsmen take refuge in Geneva. They are welcomed by Jean Calvin, eager to increase the number of his supporters. The arrival of this intellectual and professional elite allows a restart of economic activity undermined by ecclesiastics. At 17thCentury, watchmaking becomes a prosperous industry and watchmakers then take the decision to group in 1601 in order to organize their profession in a trader with statutes. Apprenticeship and mastery of watchmaking are subject to severe regulations, which will result in the world's reputation for Geneva watchmaking. During the 18ththcentury and 19thCentury, Geneva takes a preponderant place in the watch industry and the name of this city, engraved on the movement of a watch, presents it as a superior room.

Unfortunately for the Geneva watchmakers, some manufacturers abuse the name of Geneva by applying a fraudulent punch on watches made outside this locality and mentioning a false origin in advertisements. To respond to this fraud, in 1873 is the foundation of the "watchmaker" which is concerned about the problem and solicits the Grand Council of the Republic and Canton of Geneva to find a solution. Thus on November 6, 1886, the Grand Council adopts a law designated under the name "Optional Monitoring Act". It provides for the creation of a control bureau based at the Geneva Horlogerie School, which has the role of affixing the official punch on the watches of the manufacturers established in the canton of Geneva meeting the conditions of admission and the 12 criteria for obtaining.


2. The punch of Geneva, a mark of excellence

The Geneva Punch concerns the mechanical watches assembled and adjusted to Geneva. This label of excellence is recognizable by the coat of arms of the canton of Geneva: the crowned head eagle and the golden key. The AigleCourran symbolizes the imperial power of the Bishop of Geneva. The key is an attribute of the Apostle Saint Peter, boss of the Church of Geneva and the Cathedral of the City. Initially, the criteria for awarding the Geneva punch concerned exclusively the movement. As of June 2012, the entire watch is certified. This punch allows recognition and identification of quality by the customer. In terms of high watchmaking, the slightest detail of each component is screened before obtaining the most prestigious certification. This extremely pushed perfectionism allows the Geneva punch to remain the label of excellence, approved by the Geneva Watchmaking and Micro Technology Laboratory, Timelab.

As previously said, to benefit from the Geneva punch you have to respond to strict criteria. Only the mechanical watches assembled and settled in the Geneva territory can claim to obtain the Geneva punch. Each caliber must meet twelve technical and aesthetic criteria determining its design and characteristics. Only watches meeting the twelve criteria defined in the Rules of the Geneva Punch may receive this certification. Label of excellence and emblem of tradition of Haute Geneva, this certificate guarantees the provenance, the lecture and reliability of the mechanical watches assembled, regulated, finished and controlled in the canton of Geneva.

The 12 points to be respected to obtain the label of the Geneva Punch:

  1. The welfant of all the supplies of the caliber, including those of the additional mechanisms, must comply with the requirements. The steel supplies must have polished angles, the stretched flanks, the softened visible faces, the screw heads must be polished or curled.
  2. Any movement must be equipped with ruby ​​stones with polished holes, rolling and exhaust. Pont side, the stones must be mid-ice and polished moldings. The stone wheel stone with platinum is not required.
  3. The spiral must be fixed by a slide plate with piton with head and round neck. The Piton Mobile holder is accepted.
  4. Adjustable or split rackets are admitted with a maintenance system with the exception of extra-flat calibres where the system is not required.
  5. The adjusting systems with variable gyration radius pendulum are allowed provided that they fulfill the conditions of Article 3.
  6. The finishing wheels must be angled on and below and have polished moldings. For wheels whose thickness is less than or equal to 0.15 mm, only one angle is tolerated (bridge side).
  7. Tigerons and sides of the gears must be polished.
  8. The exhaust wheel must be light, its thickness not exceeding 0.16 mm for large parts and 0.13 mm for those below 18 mm, its rest should be polished.
  9. The limit of the angle of the anchor must be against two fixed stops with the exclusion of pins or pads.
  10. Movements with bumpers are accepted.
  11. The ratchet and the crown wheel must be completed in accordance with the models deposited.
  12. The son springs are not allowed.

3. Evolution of the Geneva Punch

The law has been revised several times and the criteria of the Geneva punch have evolved in order to monitor the evolution of the techniques and materials used by the watchmakers. Today the Geneva Punch is managed by the Timelab Foundation, which includes a certification cluster and a research & development cluster. To better correspond to the new requirements of the watchmaking world, the twelve criteria of the punch have been updated in 2013. The goal was to modernize this certification while maintaining the know-how of yesteryear. Indeed, some criteria had not moved since 1886! To modernize it, a technical commission of seven members mobilized for two years to modernize and make the punch compatible with a perpetual evolution sector.

Since 2012, the Geneva punch no longer guarantees the quality of the movement, but that of the watch in its entirety. Indeed, for 125 years, the punch focused on the movement and respect of the particular finishes of the materials and the prohibition of certain pieces like the spring with wire. Since 2012, he certifies the timepiece as a whole, from design to dress up. Thus, the watches now receive two seals, one on the movement next to the serial number, and the other on the housing.

Many factories want to use new so-called innovative materials. The regulation has therefore adapted to these new technologies: a piece containing a polymer has been approved, after it has been proven that only this material fulfilled the ideal friction conditions in this case. More meaningful, the silicon has been approved by the new punch, but still in specific cases, mainly for exhaust parts. Reinforced controls are performed. To meet the excellence of this punch, everything is 100% controlled, each room, every detail, each part of each timepiece. To do this, a machine is available to allow them to perform controls on finished watches and the results are obviously overrilled. Concretely, these operating tests are used to control the precision of the operation, the functions, the sealing and the power supply.

At Charlie Paris, we are committed to passing on our passion for watchmaking and offering you French watches with clean lines, with quality components and at an accessible price. It is important to us to act locally, which is why our watches are assembled with al-hand in France, near Besançon,by experienced professional horlogers. We offer you models ofWomen's watches and of Men's Watches With interchangeable bracelet that are both sober and remarkable. You have questions ? Our team is intended to vote by emailbonjour@charlie-paris.com And we welcome you to our shop at 53 rue Saint André des Arts, Paris 6th.  

Automatic man watch

Automatic man watch

Automatic man watch