What criteria must a watch meet to receive the Hallmark of Geneva ?

For over a century, the "Geneva Seal" has been a benchmark of quality and exceptional craftsmanship. The Geneva Watchmaking and Microtechnology Laboratory, known as Timelab, is responsible for the "Geneva Seal" activities. This last one is the seal of watchmaking quality. Established by the Grand Council of the Canton of Geneva in 1886, this certification is a standard of excellence and the emblem of Geneva's fine watchmaking; it guarantees the origin of the watches, their craftsmanship and reliability. But what criteria must a Geneva Seal watch meet to To receive it? Team Charlie Paris explains everything in detail in this article.

• The origins

Established in 1886, the Geneva Seal is a label of excellence that guarantees the origin and quality of automatic watches manufactured in the canton of Geneva. Since 2009, the Geneva watchmaking and microtechnology laboratory has been responsible for controlling its allocation.

The creation of this certification originated as early as the 16th^th century when many Huguenot watchmakers sought refuge in Geneva. They were welcomed by John Calvin, eager to increase the number of his followers. The arrival of this intellectual and professional elite allowed for a restart of economic activity, which had been hampered by the clergymen. On the 17th^thIn the 19th century, watchmaking became a thriving industry, and watchmakers decided to organize themselves in 1601 to form a guild. guild endowed with statutes. The apprenticeship and mastership of watchmakers are subject to strict regulations, the result of which will contribute to the worldwide reputation of Geneva watchmaking. During the 18^thcentury and 19th^thIn the 19th century, Geneva took a leading role in the watchmaking industry, and the name of this city, engraved on the movement of a watch, presents this as a superior quality piece.

Unfortunately for Geneva watchmakers, some manufacturers abuse the name of Geneva by fraudulently applying a hallmark to watches made outside the city and by mentioning a false origin in advertisements. To combat this fraud, the " Society of Watchmakers who was concerned about the problem and petitioned the Grand Council of the Republic and Canton of Geneva to find a solution. Thus, on November 6, 1886, the Grand Council adopted a law known as the "Law on the Optional Control of Watches." This law provided for the creation of a control office based at the Geneva School of Watchmaking, whose role was to affix the official hallmark to watches made by manufacturers established in the Canton of Geneva that met the admission requirements and the 12 criteria for obtaining the mark.

• A mark of excellence

The Geneva Seal applies to mechanical watches assembled and adjusted in Geneva. This mark of excellence is recognizable by the coat of arms of the Canton of Geneva : The crowned eagle and the golden key. The crowned eagle symbolizes the imperial power of the bishop of Geneva. The key is an attribute of the apostle Saint Peter, patron saint of the Church of Geneva and the city's cathedral. Initially, the criteria for awarding the Geneva Seal applied exclusively to the movement. Since June 2012, the entire watch has been certified. This hallmark allows the customer to recognize and identify its quality.In the world of fine watchmaking, every detail of each component is meticulously examined before receiving the most prestigious certification. This extreme perfectionism allows the Geneva Seal to remain the hallmark of excellence, accredited by the Geneva Watchmaking and Microtechnology Laboratory, Timelab.

As previously mentioned, to qualify for the Geneva Seal, strict criteria must be met. Only mechanical watches assembled and regulated within the canton of Geneva are eligible for the Geneva Seal. Each caliber must meet twelve technical and aesthetic criteria that define its design and characteristics. Only watches meeting all twelve criteria defined in the Geneva Seal regulations can receive this certification. A label of excellence and an emblem of Geneva's fine watchmaking tradition, this certificate guarantees the origin, craftsmanship, and reliability of mechanical watches assembled, regulated, cased, and inspected in the canton of Geneva.

• The evolution of the Geneva Seal

The law has been revised several times, and the criteria for the Geneva Seal have evolved to keep pace with the changing techniques and materials used by watch manufacturers. Today, the Geneva Seal is managed by the Timelab Foundation, which comprises a certification department and a research department. & Development. To better meet the new requirements of the watchmaking world, the twelve criteria of the Hallmark were updated in 2013. The goal was to modernize this certification while preserving the traditional expertise. Indeed, some criteria hadn't changed since 1886! To modernize it, a seven-member technical committee worked for two years to update the Hallmark and make it compatible with a constantly evolving sector.

Since 2012, the Geneva Seal has guaranteed not only the quality of the movement, but that of the watch as a whole. For 125 years, the Seal focused on the movement and adherence to specific material finishes, as well as prohibiting certain components such as the wire spring. Since 2012, it certifies the timepiece in its entirety, from design to case. Thus, watches now receive two seals: one on the movement next to the serial number, and the other on the case. Case.

Many manufacturers want to use new, so-called innovative materials. The regulations have therefore adapted to these new technologies: a part containing a polymer has been approved after it was proven that only this material met the ideal friction requirements in this specific case. More significantly, silicon has been approved by the new Hallmark, but again only in very specific cases, primarily for exhaust components. Enhanced quality control is implemented. To maintain the excellence of this hallmark, everything is 100% inspected: every component, every detail, every part of every timepiece. A machine is available to perform these checks on finished watches, and the results are, of course, verified. Specifically, these functional tests verify the accuracy of the timekeeping, the functions, the water resistance, and the power reserve.