What does the term “jeweling” mean in watchmaking ?

The setting of jewels in watchmaking is an essential process in the design of mechanical watches. It refers to the integration of precious or synthetic stones, mainly rubies, within the movement in order to optimize its operation and durability.

Why are rubies used in watch movements?

Adding watch rubies to a movement addresses several technical challenges:

• 1. Reduction of friction : Rubies have very low friction, thus limiting wear on the moving parts of the movement.
  
• 2. Improved longevity : By reducing friction points, mechanical components wear out less quickly, which ensures greater caliber durability.
• 3. Precision optimization : Less friction also means smoother and more stable operation, promoting better regularity of movement over time.
  
• 4. Reduced lubrication requirements : The use of synthetic stones limits the need for oils, which can degrade over time and affect the accuracy of the mechanism.

These stones are found at critical points in the movement, including:

• The axes of the pendulum, which regulate the passage of time.
  
• The pivots of the gears, which transmit energy within the mechanism.
  
• The escapement anchor, where they reduce wear and optimize energy transfer between the gear train and the oscillator.

The number of rubies: a criterion of quality?

The number of jewels in a watch movement varies depending on the complexity of the caliber. While a simple mechanical movement may contain between 15 and 21 jewels, a more sophisticated caliber, incorporating, for example, a complication, will have more. Moon Phase or a chronograph, can count many more.

However, the number of jewels should not be the sole criterion for evaluating the quality of a watch. A well-designed and judiciously placed jewel setting is more important than a high number of unoptimized jewels. Some brands even add "decorative" jewels that have no mechanical function, purely for marketing purposes.

The gemstones in Charlie Paris watches

At Charlie Paris, we are committed to integrating high-quality automatic movements into our creations. This is particularly true of the C105 caliber that powers our Alliance Moon Phase, which incorporates 33 strategically placed rubies to ensure optimal precision and flawless fluidity.

Furthermore, in our collection Alliance, We use the P024 automatic movement from the Soprod manufacture, a caliber with meticulous jewel settings.

Manual vs. automated stone laying

While jewel setting can be done manually by watchmakers, it can also be automated using high-precision machines. In this exclusive video, we invite you to discover the jewel setting process of the La Joux-Perret G100 movement, a fascinating process where each stone is carefully inserted to optimize the caliber's performance.

Far from being a mere aesthetic detail, the jewels in a watch are a key element in its performance and longevity. This is a characteristic we value at Charlie Paris, carefully selecting movements with high-quality jewels, a testament to our commitment to precise, durable, and elegant watchmaking.