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Qu’est-ce qu’une montre guillochée ?
3 min read

What is a guilloché watch ?

Even though a watch's primary function is to tell time, its aesthetics and decoration are increasingly important today. As watches become more and more like jewelry, decorative techniques are multiplying. Numerous decorative techniques exist in watchmaking, and they are primarily applied to the watch face. Today, Team Charlie Paris has decided to introduce you to one of them. : guilloché work.

What is a guilloché watch?

Guilloché is a decorative technique in watchmaking. This decoration can be applied to the dial and the Case of a watch. The guilloché action consists of engraving guilloche patterns on metal by hand or machine How to recognize a guilloché watch ? If you see an engraving of intersecting or interlacing straight lines or curves, called guilloché, it is very likely a guilloché watch. This decorative technique involves creating an engraving of intersecting or interlacing straight lines or curves using a guilloché machine. This machine consists of a crank and a burin.

The guilloché watch, a decoration very common in watchmaking

Guilloché is recognized as a true art form. A guilloché dial is a work of art in its own right, and several steps are involved in creating it. First, the smooth dial disc is worked with a burin to trace the various areas that will house, if needed and depending on the model, complications such as time indications, power reserve, Moon Phase or like the small seconds hand. The dial blank is then ready to receive the guilloché work, which will give it a matte surface and delineate the zones with various designs. Beyond these stages, the decorations are varied and highly elaborate.

Today, hand guilloché is a technique mastered by only a few major watchmakers, and the machines used to perform it are no longer manufactured. The rare guilloché machines available for sale are therefore extremely expensive. This decorative technique is also inherently limited in production because hand guilloché requires not only time but also precious and rare expertise. These reasons explain why hand guilloché is reserved for exceptional watches and is primarily practiced by major luxury brands or high-end watchmakers. It is estimated that there are between 10 and 15 guillocheurs working in Europe.

The different types of guilloché in watchmaking

The most well-known guilloché patterns include the Clou de Paris, the Pavé de Paris, the Rayon de Soleil, the Grains d'Orge, the Vagues, the Vieux Panier, the Damier, and the Flamé pattern, among others. Team Charlie Paris invites you to discover the most commonly used guilloché motifs. in watchmaking:

  • The Clous de Paris is one of the most widely used guilloché patterns in watchmaking, especially on classic watches, although some sports models also employ it. The Clous de Paris, shaped like pyramidal nail heads with small grooves between each nail, is a type of guilloché primarily used on dials. On a dial decorated with this technique, there are dozens, or even hundreds, of these tiny nails. This type of guilloché is often created using a machine.
  • The barley grain guilloché pattern is one of the best known. It consists of a mixture of straight lines and curves resembling grains of barley.
  • The Parisian cobblestone pattern is a classic and timeless type of guilloché. Highly geometric, this symmetrical design is composed of intersecting lines and columns.
  • Sunburst guilloché is also a timeless classic and, as its name suggests, this engraving is circular in shape.
  • The guilloché wave pattern consists of curves that represent waves.
  • The old basketweave guilloché pattern is mostly composed of curves but also includes straight lines. This classic decoration is very concentrated towards the bottom and extends upwards.

The use of different patterns gives the model good readability but also a unique character and design.

The guilloché watch, by Charlie Paris

As you may have guessed, guilloché is a well-known decorative engraving technique in watchmaking. At Charlie Paris, we aim to create models of watches French, Elegant and high-quality, all at a fair price. Guilloché is a decorative technique renowned among major luxury brands, and we wanted to use it to craft the dial of our model. Women's automatic watch. Indeed, it is on our watch automaticInitial 36 that we decided to offer a guilloché dial, both sophisticated and refined.

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